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The Fat Man's Club
I found the below in a discussion on obesity and its relation to wealth here. It's really interesting and I suggest you give it a read. As that blog states, though obesity in Western countries today largely correlates with poverty, it was once a strong indicator of wealth. The more money you had, the more Willy Wonka-style feasts you could afford. It wasn't a perfect correlation--there was such a thing as being too fat in the 19th century (looking at you, George IV), and slender, athletic, muscly men certainly were considered attractive. However, the Victorians treated the concept of "fat" quite differently and with far less stigma than we do today.

In 1866, a "Fat Man's Club" was opened in Connecticut. Each member had to weigh at least 200 lbs to qualify for membership. Apparently the club was so popular, it spread. The below image was taken of members of a Fat Man's Club in 1894 in Van Zandt County, Texas. According to the County Genealogical Society, each man was weighed in a cotton gin to verify his qualifications.


In many ways, the Fat Man's Club was a Victorian country club, only instead of directly measuring the power of its members through their wallets, it was thought that their power and status could be read directly in their physique. Not sure what the activities were--probably not swimming and golfing like a normal country club. I'm guessing "Sitting around and stuffing yourself with pies" would be high up on the activities list.

Then, around the turn of the century, food started to be made available and affordable to everyone. The railways had a lot to do with this, since food could be shipped in bulk quickly from the country and coast and arrive still fresh in the city. You didn't have to be a millionaire to eat well anymore. So the lower classes started filling out a bit. And when that happened, the upper classes started losing weight. If they couldn't be the fattest, then they'd be the thinnest, goddamn it! (Check out any socialite today and tell me I'm wrong.) Suffice it to say, the Fat Man's Club closed in only 1903, leaving us with our current views on weight and wealth.

Though I have been unable to find and reproduce it here (help, anyone, if you can), I once read an amazing non-fiction novel called Devil in the White City, which had in it a menu that was typical of high-powered business dinners in the 1890s. If you don't believe me that food was associated to power, you should see this thing. It must have had ten courses, all of them decadent and covered with cream and filled with cheese and artery-clogging goodness, with several cigarette and booze breaks in the middle. I would buy that book just to have the menu on hand.

So the moral of the story is, if someone says you're fat, just tell them it's because you're from old money and prefer to keep the traditions alive.

A friend of mine managed to find the menu from Devil in the White City. It is as follows, with the course underlined and the accompanying alcohol in italics:

Blue Points a l'Alaska.
Consomme printanier. Creme de Celeri.
Rissoles Chateaubriand. Amandes salees. Olives, etc.
Bass rayee, sauce hollandaise. Pommes parisiennes.
Miersfeiner. Moet et Chandon. Perrier Jouet, Extra Dry Special.
Filet de Boeuf aux champignons. Haricots verts. Pommes duchesse.
Ris de Veau en cotelette. Petit Pois.
Romaine fantaisie. Cigarettes.
Canard de Tete Rouge. Salade de Laitue.
Pontet Canet
Petits Moules fantaisies. Gateaux assortis. Bonbons. Petits-fours. Fruit assortis.
Roquefort et Camembert.
Cognac. Cordials. Cigars.

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Fat Man's Menu

Other than the cigarettes/cigars, that menu seems quite healthy to me. The idea that natural saturated fat was "artery-clogging" was based on crap science and spread by crap media. The items on that menu are real food and of a quality that would be hard to match today - no industrial vegetable oils, no meat fattened by grain and hormones, no GMO, nothing processed, no HFCS and no pesticides. And if one didn't overdo it with the deserts and alcohol that menu could be considered quite healthy.

Re: Fat Man's Menu

The Victorian diet (in London) from about 1850-1875 has been studied and has been found to be optimal. It was only after 1875 that commercial processed flour products and other foods that lead to chronic disease became widely available.

Re: Fat Man's Menu

The more I look at this menu the more I like it. It is mostly nutrient dense food from animals that lived their lives outdoors in a clean environment.

Oysters with white wine
Beef, potatoes, almonds and olives
Bass with hollandaise, more potatoes and champagne
More beef with green beans and potatoes
Veal with green peas
Duck with salad and red wine
Pastries and cakes
Cheese, sparkling water, cognac and cordials

Again, if a 21st century American didn't over do it with portion size, alcohol and sweets it would be a vast improvement over the Standard American Diet.

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